Bombay HC dismisses PIL against Prada amid technical team’s visit to Kolhapuri chappal artisans

A technical team of the global fashion brand Prada visited the Kolhapuri chappal artisans and the famous chappal market of Kolhapur during their two-day visit, which ended on Wednesday (July 16, 2025). They took samples of the leather work from the artisans. They also met the district collector of Kolhapur in a courtesy visit. The four-member team included Prada’s footwear division’s pattern-making manager and the director of the men’s technical and production department. They were accompanied by two external consultants.

During the visit, the team was gifted a pair of ‘Mauje Puda Kapshi’ Kolhapuri chappals by a local artisan, a centuries-old design which local artisans say was the inspiration behind Prada’s controversial leather sandals launched during their recent summer/spring collection. Meanwhile, the Bombay High Court dismissed a PIL filed against the fashion giant.

Six advocates had sought action against Prada for allegedly copying the design of the iconic Kolhapuri chappal. A Division Bench of Chief Justice Alok Aradhe and Justice Sandeep Marne questioned the locus standi of the petitioners, who were neither registered proprietors under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act nor directly affected parties.

In Kolhapur, the technical team of Prada consisted of Paolo Tiveron, Director of Men’s Technical and Production Department – Footwear Division; Daniele Contu, Pattern Making Manager – Footwear Division; Andrea Pollastrelli, External consultant; and Roberto Pollastrelli, External consultant. They visited Inga leather work, LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Limited) centre, Karakari Leather works, Kolhapuri chappal women artisans’ cluster at Kagal, Sunil Lokare and Rohit Gavali’s production facilities.

“The four-member team had come from Italy. We took them to the production facilities of a few local artisans where they observed the process of making Kolhapuri chappals in the traditional manner, without using any machinery. They took photos and understood the process minutely. Thereafter, they visited the famous Kolhapuri chappal market,” Lalit Gandhi, chairperson of MACCIA (Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture), told The Hindu from Kolhapur. He said that the developments led to hopes for Kolhapur. “If we get their technical support, we will be able to make our mark on the global platform,” he added.

The team also paid a courtesy visit to Kolhapur District Collector Amol Yedge. “They appreciated the skills of our artisans, making the Kolhapuri chappals. We appraised them of the public sentiments about the identity of the Kolhapuri chappals and told them that there were strong sentiments here about the Kolhapuri identity of the leather sandals. They took note of it. They also said they will get back to the possibility of any value addition in the process, after discussing this with their Board of Members,” Amol Yedge, district collector of Kolhapur, told The Hindu.

Also read | Meet the real artisans behind India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals — now in the global spotlight

The global fashion giant had faced a flak for not crediting the Kolhapuri chappals as the inspiration behind its leather sandals launched during the recent summer/spring collection.

News in Frames | Kolhapuri chappals walk on chic runways

Hands at work: Artisans set out leather pieces of various sizes to make the chappals.

First step: Pieces of vegetable-tanned leather is laid out to dry under the sun on a terrace on Kolhapur.

Bootstrapping tradition: Leather ‘ears’ used to attach the T-strap are left to dry at a workshop.

Crafting each step: Tools used to make Kolhapuri chappals are kept in precise order for the convenience of the artisans.

Shaping the sole: Absorbed in his work, a craftsman cuts the right shape for a chappal.

On the anvil: The Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted in modest workshops.

A stitch in time: At her home workshop, an artisan stitches the sole of the chappal.

Finishing touches: Inside Kolhapur’s Chappal market, an artisan polishes a pair of Kolhapuris, giving the handmade leather its sheen.

Royal replicas: Shubam Satpute, owner of Igna Leathers, showcases a pair of royal Kolhapuris, replicas of the footwear once worn by King Shahu Maharaj, who is considered a visionary ruler.

Timeless display: Kolhapuri chappals on display at Rashtriya Leather Works, one of the oldest shops in the market. The cottage industry has received a boost with the global attention after fashion brand Prada praised the craftsmanship behind the traditional footwear.

1/3

Prada gifted the original design

Shubham Satpute, the fourth generation proprietor of Inga Leather Works in Kolhapur’s Subhashnagar area, gifted a pair of ‘Mauje Puda Kapshi’ Kolhapuri chappal to the technical team of Prada. “It is a thousand years old design. It was the very same design that they had launched in their collection,” he said. Shubham’s reel on the design had gone viral then. His family has been running the business since 1902.

“The purpose of the visit was to understand the traditional process behind Kolhapuri chappal making — a time-honored craft that has been preserved and perfected by local artisans over generations. During their visit, the Prada team closely observed key techniques such as hand-stitching, leather cutting, Veni making (leather braiding), and Detha Veni — a signature braided T-strap style that represents the hallmark of authentic Kolhapuri footwear. They also explored the variety of Kolhapuri chappal designs, gaining insights into the artistry, cultural significance, and meticulous manual work involved in each pair. The team was particularly impressed by the refined skill and attention to detail shown by the artisans, who create every piece without the use of industrial machinery,” he said, adding that the team took samples of some finished and unfinished work.

“They took the leather strap and veni (thin, decorative braids made of leather strings). They were here at my studio for almost one and a half hours on Tuesday evening,” he said.

After visiting the famous Kolhapuri chappal market in the city, the team expressed satisfaction and bought a few pairs. “We expect that something positive should come out of this visit,” said Shivajirao Powar, the chairperson of Kolhapuri chappal footwear association.