Henna, often seen as a symbol of joy and tradition during Indian celebrations, may not be as harmless as many assume. According to dermatologist Dr (Major) Gurveen Waraich, MBBS, MD, adulterated versions of mehendi are increasingly being used, leading to harmful side effects.
In a recent Instagram video, she cautioned, “Are you sure you’re using the real one and it’s not the adulterated version? Henna, the core component of Indian celebration, is unfortunately not henna anymore. There is so much adulteration, and pigmentation, blistering, allergic reaction. We see multiple cases every season (sic).”
Dr Waraich then broke down the signs that help identify safe versus unsafe mehendi. “Number one, avoid anything that says black henna. That’s no henna. It’s pure colour with PPD. Number two, check the ingredient list. It should not mention indigo as one of its ingredients. Literally run in the opposite direction. Number three, colour and texture. This is how natural henna looks like, slightly yellowish green in colour, somewhat similar to matcha, and it should feel fine, not gritty. And once you add water, it should turn dark greenish but not too dark and definitely not black. If it’s more towards black than green, it’s surely adulterated. Lastly, stay away from these mehendi cones that promise instant dark colour. Mehendi would take some time to stain and should look like mehendi.”
So, what exactly is PPD, and why is it harmful when applied to the skin?
Dr Swetha Sridhar, Medical Director, Dr Swetha’s Skin Sutra Clinic, tells indianexpress.com, “Paraphenylenediamine, or PPD, is a chemical commonly used in hair dyes to create a darker, longer-lasting colour. When added to henna, it makes the stain appear black and develop quickly, which is why it is sometimes called ‘black henna.’”
She continues, “The concern is that PPD is not meant for direct skin application. On sensitive skin, it can trigger strong allergic reactions, ranging from redness and itching to severe blistering. In some cases, repeated exposure can even make a person permanently sensitive to hair dyes and similar chemicals in the future.”
How can someone practically test or check whether their henna is natural or adulterated before applying it?
Many people buy ready-to-use mehendi cones during festive seasons. Dr Sridhar states, “Pure henna has a distinct earthy smell, a greenish-brown paste, and typically stains the skin in shades of orange to deep brown over a day or two. If a cone smells strongly of chemicals, looks jet black, or promises an instant dark stain within minutes, it is very likely adulterated.”
She suggests a simple test: apply a small amount to the inside of the arm and wait a few hours to observe its development. “Natural henna takes time to release its colour and never stains pitch black immediately. Checking the ingredient list and buying from trusted brands or freshly prepared sources is also a safer choice.”
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Immediate steps to take after an allergic reaction to fake henna
If there is burning, itching, or redness soon after application, Dr Sridhar stresses, the first step is to wash off the henna thoroughly with mild soap and water. “Applying a cool compress can help reduce discomfort. However, if blisters, swelling, or spreading rashes develop, it is important to seek medical help without delay.”
“A dermatologist can prescribe appropriate treatment, such as topical steroids or antihistamines, or even oral steroids, to control the reaction and prevent complications. Always consult your dermatologist before using henna/hair dyes,” concludes the dermatologist.
DISCLAIMER: This article is based on information from the public domain and/or the experts we spoke to. Always consult your health practitioner before starting any routine.
